Revisie (Lagers/krukas)
 

 
Finally, I can start to put the moving parts back into the shortblock. I started by checking the crankshaft. One way of doing that is to put it into #3 and #5 bearings (liberally oiled), mounting and torqueing these bearing caps, and putting a dial-gauge on the journal of #1 bearing. If you now start rotating the crank you can check for out-of-roundness and/or excentricity. I think "my" machine shop did some very good work, as the needle of the gauge didn't move at all. I repeated the same measurement with the crank in #1 and #5 bearings, with the gauge on the journal of #3. Same story. Next to this is a simple sketch,which probably says more than these 100 odd words. Checking runout of crank (sketch). Click to enlarge

 

 
Measuring bearing clearance. Click to enlarge
 
  Measuring bearing clearance. Click to enlarge
To measure the bearing clearances I had to get the crank all clean and dry again. Then I put the crank back into the bearings (all of them, this time) and put a strip of plasti-gauge on each journal. Torqued all caps to specs. Made sure NOT to move the crank this time, and removed the caps again. When comparing the now squashed strips of plasti-gauge with the scale on the wrappings I measured 7/100 mm. A little less than 0.003". I thought this was a bit too loose, but I shouldn't have worried. At idle the motor has some 60 psi oilpressure cold, a little over 40 warm. No problem.
 
  I measured axial play by putting the dial gauge onto the crank-snout, and levering the crank for- and backwards by putting a lever between a counterweight and the block. I measured 15 to 16/100 mm which is 0.006". I tried to measure the axial play of the conrods with feeler-gauges. I feel these measurements are not the most accurate, but at least I got an impression. Here are the numbers:
  • cylinder 1 & 2: 0.51mm or 0.020"
  • cylinder 3 & 4: 0.41mm or 0.016"
  • cylinder 5 & 6: 0.61mm or 0.024"
  • cylinder 7 & 8: 0.46mm or 0.018"
 

 

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